Qorikancha in Cusco, the most important place of the Incan Empire.

Post - Spanish Qorikancha.

The ancient Qorikancha in the Pre-Colombian times was the main temple of Cusco, the capital city of Incas. The Inca Empire (1438-1532) was the largest state of New World before the European conquest. It occupied the major part of modern Perú, Bolivia, Ecuador, north of Chile and northeast of Argentina. According to historians’ calculations, its population exceeded 9 million inhabitants.

Outside view of the Qorikancha
Surprised by a rainbow -
inspiration of the flag of Inca

Tawantinsuyu was the word used by the Incas to name their domains. In Quechua (the official language of the Inca Empire) it means “the four parts of the World”. The Inca Empire was divided into four provinces (suyus): Antisuyu (to the East from Cusco), Kuntisuyu ( to the West from Cusco),  Chinchasuyu ( to the North from Cusco) and Qollasuyu (to the South from Cusco).

The entrance

Incas remain in history as talented warriors, politicians and architects. Their culture is outstanding for its sophisticated technologies in ceramics, metallurgy, textiles, and especially in architecture and engineering. Many of their creations, their palaces and fortresses, roads and bridges, endure to our days.

Qorikancha of the Incas: Its’ history

Tawantinsuyu- the Incan Empire

Three doors represent the past, the present and the future.

According to the 16^th century author Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa, the founders of the Inca ruling dynasty, Manco Capac and his family, conquered the valley of Cusco and established here the first four quarters, or neighbourhoods of the town: Quinti Cancha, Chumbi Cancha, Sairi Cancha and Yarambuy Cancha, between the rivers Saphi and Tullumayu. Within this first settlement, in the place whee Qoricancha is now standing, the main temple, called the “House of Sun”, or Inticancha, was constructed. (Inti: sun, cancha: enclosure)

Inca Pachakuti, the great reformer of the Inca Empire, rebuilt the city of Cusco in the second half of the 15^th century and ordered new constructions to be made for the House of Sun. Pachakuti provided the sanctuary with the fabulous treasures, the reason why it changed its name to Qorikancha, which means in Quechua “gold enclosure”. (According to the Spanish languange spelling, it is written as Coricancha; according to the rules of the modern Quechua language it is spelled “Qorikancha”.)

The 16^th century Spanish author Pedro de Cieza de Leon describes the main Inca temple: “This temple had more than four hundred steps in circumference, all surrounded by a big wall, the whole building composed of excellent masonry, of fine stonework very well adjusted, with some of the stones very big and of superb quality; (between them) there was no mortar nor line, but kind of a bitumen which they commonly use in their constructions, and the stones are so well worked that no mortar or joint can be seen… There were many doorways, and the doors finely worked; along the wall ran a gold band spans wide and four fingers high. The doors and the doorways were plated with this metal…”

View from outside on the temple and Santo Domingo

Qorikancha: deities and their cults

Colonial chronicle writers disagree in numbers and description of the Inca deities venerated in Qorikancha and the location of their respective precincts.

The celebrated author of mixed Indian-Spanish origin Garcilaso de la Vega narrates in his Royal Comments that the most important building was a temple dedicated to the Sun god (Inti), located in the western part of the courtyard, where nowadays the Temple of Saint Dominic is standing. On the door sides of the courtyard were the temple dedicated to the Moon (Killa), the Sun’s wife; the temple of the planet Venus (Ch’aska) and the stars (Qoyllur); that of the thunder and lightning (Illapa); that of the rainbow (K’uychi) and the chamber of the high priest (Willaq Umu).

Outside the Santo Domingo
Ancient Qorikancha

Father Barnabo Cobo in his History of the New World says that the most important image of the Qorikancha was called P’unchau: “It was a sculptured image called Punachau, which means ‘day’, all made of the finest gold, with exquisite richness of jewelry, his figure with a human face, surrounded with rays, like we use to paint (the sun); it was placed in such a way that it faced the east, and when the sun came out, its light fell on the image; and as it was a very fine metal plate, the sun rays reverberated and were reflected with such a shining that it looked like sun itself. Indians said that together with its light, the sun communicated its virtue to the image”.

The Indian author Juan de Santa Cruz Pachacuti affirms that the main deity venerated at Qorikancha was the creator go Viraqocha, who was represented by the oval gold plate.

Besides all these deities, mummies of the Inca emperors and their wives were venerated at Qorikancha, as ancestors protectors of the royal dynasty and the whole            

                                                                       Empire.

A walls with windows in one of the rooms in the temple.

Things to do in Lima...food, Pisco and over 60 museums.

Sweets

Lima has so many things to offer for its' visitors, that one doesn't know where to start, so we started from... eating! Oh yes, I have already mentioned in earlier blogs that food in Lima is heaven!
Amongst all, I have chosen a few things, which I find important, fun and interesting.
While walking or driving around the town, Lima has many beautiful parks too with entertainment: museums, art market, artifacts markets etc.

My list of Limas' "to do's":

*Plaza de Armas and Palace of the Government

Plaza de Armas, start your sightseeing here

*Cathedral of Lima

*Municipalidad de Lima – City Council

*Aliaga House – the oldest house of Americas

*Church of San Francisco and Catacombes

Amongst over 60 museums we have visited 4:

*Museo Metropolitano de Lima – 10,000 years of history, virtual museum

Painting fair in the park

*Museo de Larco – gold, silver and erotic collection

*Museo de Arte de Lima - MALI

*Casa Gastronomica de Perú – Culinary trip of Lima

*Temples of Pucllana, Huallamarca - ancient Perú buildings

*Miraflores – Larcomar, best views of Lima, nice restaurants and shopping

*El Malecón – the seafront parks - promenade

Famous sandwiches next to
Kennedy Park in Miraflores

*Parque del Amor – sunset & skydive

*Magic Water Circuit – lights, music and water show

*Skydiving

*Surfing

*Rent a bike at the promenade

*Eat at the famous Astrid & Gastón

*Try famous sandwiches from La Lucha sangucheria

*Try the local sweets in the parks

Love Park at the sunset where you can take a skydive too

*Try the Chinese-Peruvian fusion food – Chifa

*Can't leave Lima without trying its' famous Pisco Sour

*Just eat - everywhere you can!

Lima - history introduction and its culinary delicacies.

Francisco Pizarro

Lima is the capital city of Perú, located by the coast on the desert in the Centre-West of the country, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The population number currently is around 9 million people, placing Lima in the fourth place on the list of largest cities in Latin America. It’s a modern capital city, with a South American feel though.

The city was founded by Francisco Pizarro, let’s call him Frank, on the 18^th of January 1534 as “The City of the Kings” (La Ciudad de los Reyes), it became the capital of the Viceroyalty of Perú.

Pizarro captured the Inca ruler - Atahualpa, who was killed by Frank himself. Incas were astounded by the look of the invaders. Spanish came on horses, not known to native Latin Americans, dressed up in a manner neither known to Incas.  As the Incas’ system was based on a pyramid, Inca was the head of the Empire, after his death the society started collapsing very quickly, as all the decisions were upon him. Spanish took over the Incan Empire.

For an insight of pre-Columbian history of the region I leave you a link to an article

“Glorious Pre-Colombian Lima”:

http://enperublog.com/2008/09/15/glorious-pre-columbian-lima/

Cathedral, resting place of Frank,
also built over an ancient shrine

After being designated as the capital of the Viceroyalty of Perú it became one of the most important trading centres in the America. Lima is also home to the oldest University in both Americas, which was founded by Spanish in 1551, called  “National University of San Marcos”.

Government Palace, also former home of Frank
built over an Indian ancient temple

During the centuries it’s been prone to pirate attacks, so in the end of XVII century the walls have been built to protect the city.

In 1746 an earthquake devastated a third of the city, which was quickly rebuilt under the governance of Viceroy José Antonio Manso de Velasco.

On 28^th of July 1821 Argentinean general José de San Martín proclaimed independence of Perú from Spain, making it one of the last countries to gain independence from Spain. Later in 1879 – 1883 Chilean troops occupied and looted the city, which took place in the period of the War of Pacific.

Another earthquake in 1940 destroyed most of the city, which up to that time was built from adobe and quincha. After that Lima started growing rapidly, attracting most of the Andean population, which came in search of better life and job opportunities. Still Lima is the major place in the country attracting people. That's all for a very short history of Lima. I recommend the modern Metropolitan Museum of Lima. The tour is guided and the museum itself very innovative, one of the best I have seen so far.  

It is worth mentioning that Lima is the Gastronomical Capital of the Americas - Spanish, Asian and Andean flavours influence the cuisine of Perú.

One of many Chifa restaurants

The black slaves were replaced in the XIX century by Chinese workers, therefore the strong influence in their cuisine. Current number of Chinese population in Perú is around 1,300 000 - 1,600 000 people. The Peruvian-Chinese food is called Chifa in here. There are many restaurants serving this type of food, which de facto is delicious.

Papa a la Huancaina

Typical Peruvian dishes are jalea (deep fried seafood), 

causa (typical starter dish made of yellow potatoes and other ingredients), 

papas rellenas (stuffed potatoes), 

ceviche (raw fish dish, influenced by Japanese), 

papa a la Huancaina (potatoes with spicy cheese sauce), 

lomo saltado (stir-fried beef), Tacu-tacu (rice, beans and meat), 

anticuchos (skewers), empanadas, chupe de camarones (soup)… the list goes on and on…

Astrid & Gastón

Amazon fish fillet, with barley risotto,
bacon sugar and carrot consomme
@ Astrid & Gastón

Magic box with alfajores, truffles,
jellies and macaroons

One of the best restaurants in the World is here too – Astrid & Gastón. The owner is the World famous chef Gastón Acurio, the author of the best cook book in the World. For a meal for two people, including two piscos sour, two glasses of wine, a starter to share, two mains and a complimentary magic box of sweets, we paid (US$ 140, including the tip).

The most important places to see in Lima in the next article, stay tuned!

Different ways of going around Lima - public and private transport.

Sunset in Lima

Twenty hour+ bus rides are never easy, even more when they advertise it as semi-bed and it turns out to be very uncomfortable with little space, not resembling a semi cama at all. After arrival we had to get a taxi to our hostel. 

We agreed on a price and were off. In the end the taxi driver was trying to charge us 15...but dollars! Un tipo muy vivo.

When we arranged the price, he didn't mention the currency...so we gave him 20, but soles. He seemed less than overwhelmed, so he didn’t give us the change back. It seems that it’s a typical encounter in Lima with a taxi driver. 

Traffic in Lima

It strikes at first sight that there are many different taxi companies, distinguishable by colour of the car: white, blue, yellow etc. None of them uses a taximeter, so before getting on, one has to negotiate the price.

We paid from Miraflores to the airport 30 soles, when a Peruvian usually pays 15-20 apparently. Then from the bus station to Miraflores we’ve been overcharged by the driver and paid 20 soles.

When it comes to public transport it is very similar to the operation of the taxis, again there are different “busetas” – some of them mini vans, some of them small buses, distinguishable by colours, shapes or sizes. There is no information on where these buses are going to, so you must ask people around. How annoying.

The fare also varied, if it’s a short distance 50 centavos, if it’s longer - 1 sol.

Corner of Tacna in Lima and one of its' buses

The system is very chaotic, as even though you are told which bus number to take…there is no number on the bus! We were prompted by a gentleman who helped us to get on the bus, but there was no number in the front, or if there was it was different.

The bus numbers ain’t easy neither… E01, D12, A3, E12 – they’re located in the left bottom corner of the bus, little plaque, hard to read from far. So…it is how it is. It needs to be replaced by a government owned public transport in the near future.

Metropolitana route

For the relief of the inhabitants in Lima – the Metropolitana exists. It’s an overground transport, with a separate lane, resembles a little bit of an underground, but it’s a bus and it’s overground. It goes through the main points in the city from North to South, but to most of the places you must take the “buseta” anyway. This one costs 2 soles per ride, but there is a trick. You must ask people to borrow you their card to open the gate for you. You load your money on their card, and they come with you kindly to open for you. There is no single entry ticket, only a magnetic card (4,5 soles).  How annoying.

Let’s hope a change will come soon and next time I visit the things will improve. 

 

Máncora - all year round beach destination of Perú.

View over Máncora 

Pan-American highway is the main street in Máncora. It is a small town with fishing port. The beaches stretch along many kilometres, the sand is white and the waters crystalline. The abundance of life in the water stuns any visitor : different type of fish jumping above the surface of water, sea horses, whales in August, September and October.

Pura Vida

It is famous for its weather, as the place enjoys 12 months of summertime... and surfing. The waves are smooth and even myself I was able to stand up on the board. It is one of the best places to learn how to surf, but it's also a great place for skilled surfers. Waves are guaranteed 365 days a year.  A good option in Máncora is also to do...absolutely nothing, "dolce far niente", just chill on the beach.

Beach in Màncora at 8 a.m.

The city has around 10,000 habitants and receives loads of tourists (340,000 visitors in 2005). It is a destination on the rise, which will see more tourism arrivals in coming years.
Máncora is located in the North-West of Perù, 18 hours by bus from Lima, or 10 hours by bus from Trujillo. The best company to go by bus is Cruz del Sur, if you're coming from south of Perú. We came  on a direct bus from Cuenca, Ecuador (7h), the company name was Super Semería. Most visitors come by bus, as there's no local airport. If you want to fly, you may take a plane to Tumbes or Piura, and follow by 2,5 hours journey on the bus.

Deserted landscape

Found alive on the shore

The contradictory abundance
of life in water and the desert on the other side of the shore make it a unique combination. Our hostel was located on the top of the hill, so we had a view on the desert and the sea, what a mix! It is the only one, so far, to offer a splendid views over Máncora, it's called "Kon Tiki". In regards to accommodation, I wouldn't recommend staying in the "centre", main entrance to the beach, but rather on the sides - a bit farther, as it is very noisy every night, the clubs are open everyday.

Sunset and the lighthouse

Pisco Sour - national drink

I saw written on a t-shirt, that Máncora is same as Caribbean only better, because it has Ceviche! Ceviche is a dish usually prepared from raw fish, octopus, prawns, black shell meat or mix of seafood marinated in lemon and lime juices, red onion, red chilli and coriander. It is served usually with potato and toasted or fresh sweetcorn. Yummi! Most of the menú del día (daily menu) includes this dish as a starter. The main course choice is wide, so you won't go hungry. The prices of the menú del día oscillate between 8 - 10 nuevos soles (US $3-4).

See you in Máncora! 

Ecuador - Perú (Cuenca - Máncora) border crossing.

Sunset in Máncora

There are many blogs written by people who travelled through the border of Ecuador and Perú and experienced many problems, like: delays, closed office at the border for three hours in the night between 2:00 and 5:00 a.m. and change of buses along with their luggages at the border etc...
We arrived today in Máncora: on time (on the dot!), we carried on the same bus the whole journey, officers werevery nice, the immigration office open at 2:30 a.m... I assure others who want to do this track: There is nothing to worry about! Ignore other posts.

The bus costs US $14 from Cuenca to Máncora, directly. We crossed the frontier at the Huaquillas, where according to other bloggers was the worst border crossing ever in their life (backpackforever.com).
We bought the tickets one day earlier on the Cuenca bus terminal and we went with Super Semería bus company.

Baños - Ecuadorian destination for everybody!

"Baños - a little piece of heaven"

We went to Baños with a planned stay of one day...wrong! We stayed for three days, as this place is a little jewel of Ecuador, offering many activities for people of all ages.

Baños surrounded by mountains

First of all - location. Conveniently located three and a half hours by bus from Quito, with a journey through the famous Avenida de los Volcanes. Spectacular views of the Andean landscape guaranteed.
As we all know the bus costs are low in Ecuador, so it is in this case - US $3,5 per person/ one way.

To start with - Baños as the name suggests (Baths) is a place of natural hot volcanic springs.





There are two pools (not for swimming) filled with warm water and one on the lower section, which is extremely hot. Additionally there are two little pools filled with ice cold water. It does get very crowded, but the experience is worth it. The water has medicinal properties - the trick is to dip for one minute in each pool - one hot, one cold. The opening hours are from 5:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and in the evening from 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. The entrance fee is US $3.

Privileged location of the baths - under a waterfall make it a place not to miss, while in Baños.

Apart from relaxing activities, there are numerous adventure activities available: canoeing, rafting, trekking, jungle excursions, sky rope slides, cycling. Moreover, in near distance of Baños there are located breathtaking waterfalls, like the one in Rio Verde (bus US $1). Next to Baños there is located an active volcano - Tungurahua (Devil's Throat in Quechua language), which can be observed from various spots, like the bridge located opposite the main bus station.

The excursion to the jungle is very interesting, although we have done only a daily excursion as it was raining heavily that day and it made no sense to stay overnight, as we wouldn't be able to observe any wildlife at night. One day of this type of adventure costs from US $30 to 40 per person.

Canoeing in the jungle

Hola Vida

It begins at 9:00p.m. and you arrive back at around 8:00 p.m.  It is really worth it, to have a glimpse of the jungle - the guide explains properties of various plants, the history and the culture of the tribes living within the area and finishes at the waterfall Hola Vida, where you may take a bath.  The excursions located within the heart of the Amazon forest cost about US $500 for five days, but the transport is by a small airplane. Cuyabeno is one of the recommended spots in Ecuador for Amazon trips.

Tungurahua - Ecuadorian plate in Casa hood

We stayed at the eco-hostel "Casa Del Molino Blanco", which was excellent. The standards very high, it is newly opened, at accessible prices. Jimmy (Jaime) - the owner, was very helpful and welcoming. Regarding the places to eat out "Casa Hood" located in the main Plaza is one of the best. Finish your dinner off with a "bajativo"- shot of chilli cachaça. Well recommended by myself and others. I admit that I don't take any profit by mentioning these places, but it's a genuine recommendation.